Monthly Archives: October 2012

A Practical Guide to Motorcycle Wheel Chocks

Redline Engineering has been a supplier of equipment for your garage, race shop, race trailer, and more since 2002. They offer a full line of car lifts. Shop and compare the major brands at http://www.redlinestands.com

Titan_Chock_14_LRGToday’s options for bike stability have come a long way from the old block of wood.

It’s time to buy a wheel chock. Your team at Redline Engineering is here to help you decide what kind of clamp will best suit your needs. Wheel chocks can range anywhere from twenty to three hundred dollars, knowing the differences will help you get the right tool to fit your job.

There are two main types of clamps. The most popular style features a rocking cradle, found on chocks like the Condor PS1500 and Titan Bulldog MotoCradle. Rocking cradle wheel chocks allow the rider to roll his motorcycle into the chock at which point the chock will hold the motorcycle upright with no help needed from the rider. Adversely, simple round tubing chocks have no moving parts and will do nothing to hold the bike upright. These round tubing chocks only keep the front wheel secured from moving forward or side to side.

Standard Wheel Chocks
Entry level, standard wheel chocks feature no moving parts and will not hold a motorcycle upright unassisted. If you attempt to do so you’ll be calling a buddy to help pick up your freshly scratched machine off the ground. These standard wheel stops are used to keep the front tire from rolling forward and are designed to be permanently mounted to a trailer floor.

There are Two Main Types of Tire Clamps, Standard & Rocking Cradle

Rocking Cradle Wheel Chocks
There are several different varieties of rocking cradle devices, all of which can be seen at www.RedlineStands.com. These models are our favorite hands-down. Titan sells the only narrowing cradle chock on the market. This is a fantastic feature because it allows you to ride the bike into the stand while it simultaneously grabs the front tire by squeezing the pads of the cradle together as it rocks forward. All other models found on the market work in this same fashion but without a cradle that narrows during operation.

Several of these units can be permanently mounted or left free standing. If you purchase a trailer only style chock, which features no stabilizer bar, it must be rigid mounted to your trailer floor to avoid your motorcycle falling over. Some chocks are only designed for permanent mount and don’t have a bar to support rocking from side to side.
If you decide to mount your chock to your trailer floor, select manufacturers offer quick detach kits that allow fairly easy un-mounting and mounting. These detach kits work well for the money at about $25.00 and provide the ability to remove the device from your trailer floor in seconds.

Tire_Stopper_LRGIf you are using your chock for different kinds of bikes (i.e. a motorcycle repair shop) you may want to invest in a stand that is completely adjustable to house any and all different types of front wheels. All chocks adjust to an extent. Some models, like the Pit Posse Motorsports chock, feature a cradle that adjusts front to rear as well as up and down, providing extra adjustability for the perfect fit.

The last thing to consider, when buying a motorcycle chock, is the width of your front tire? If you ride a chopper with a skinny front wheel you’ll need a chopper cradle attachment. Different companies offer different solutions. Condor sells a separate cradle that mounts into the existing PS1500 frame. Titan offers thick pads that slide over the fingers of the existing cradle. Either solution allows the fixture to properly clamp onto the narrow front tire for a more secure fit.
You have now been equipped with the knowledge to accurately gauge the type of chock you need and you also have some brands to research. RedlineStands.com is at the top of the list when it comes to being able to shop and compare all the different styles side by side. We offer the brands Condor, Titan, Pit Posse, K&L Supply, Redline Engineering, Pit Pal, and Drop Tail.

Two Post Auto Lift Installation


Redline Engineering has been a supplier of equipment for your garage, race shop, race trailer, and more since 2002. They offer a full line of car lifts. Shop and compare the major brands at http://www.redlinestands.com

Two Post Auto Lift

Installation

If you can work on a car, you can install an Auto Lift.

by Redline Engineering

One of the questions we at Redline Engineering get most often about two post auto lifts is, “How hard is it to put up?” I tell people that if you have enough mechanical aptitude to work on a car, you can put up a lift. Realistically, you’re looking at a half day job and you need a friend.

To start, uncrate everything and put all your matching hardware together. Determine where you want your lift, making sure there is enough ceiling clearance before starting.

About the average suggested height minimum is 12 feet; however, lifts are available that require only 10 feet. Once this is done, pop a chalk line on the concrete to line your posts up.


Standing a complete tower up beats trying to carry the large
and cumbersome extension up a ladder.


If you have purchased a clear floor style lift like those found at www.RedlineStands.com, it may come with tower extensions. If so, bolt these onto the tops of the towers while the posts are still lying flat. Standing a complete tower up beats trying to carry the large and cumbersome extension up a ladder, I assure you.


Get one tower where you want it and make 100% sure the tower is plumb and true. Use a long level to get a more accurate reading. All two post lifts sold by Redline Engineering is supplied with the hardware should you need, as are most lifts sold by other retailers. 

Next, using a hammer drill bore through the concrete as far as you can go. You’ll usually drill right through the slab into the dirt below. Now double check to make sure you have at least 4” of concrete thickness. This is mandatory! If you are installing one of Redline’s lifts larger than 9,000 pounds of capacity check your manual to verify that even more concrete thickness isn’t recommended. 

Blow all the debris from the hole and install one anchor. Putting the anchor in is simple. After the hole is drilled and blown out, back the nut all the way off until it is flush with the top of the bolt. Hammer it in. Get it ALL the way down. 

Now align the second tower along the chalk line and space them the exact width apart as specified by your instructions. If installing a clear floor lift it’s now time to install the overhead crossbar.  

Once you’ve determined the accurate distance and have made sure the opposing tower is as true as the first, meaning perfectly straight up and down, you’re ready to drill out the remaining other holes for the baseplates. Once they’ve been drilled and blown out, sink the rest of the anchors and tighten them down. They’ll torque to about 150 foot pounds. Next, attach the power unit.


Moving on, run the cables and hydraulic hoses before you attach the arms. Attaching the arms will be last and for good reason. At Redline Engineering we usually tell our customers the cables should be taught, not tight. If you can pop the cable and it hums, it’s too tight. To ensure the life of your new machine, sufficiently grease the inside of the towers where the sliders travel after you’ve checked and removed any weld slag that could grate against the plastic slider blocks. 

Weld slag usually isn’t present, but if you find any use a chisel or angle grinder to remove it. Finally add the arms and arm locks. You’ll want to use regular hydraulic fluid to fill the container on the power unit per your instructions. Raise and lower the arms 7 to 10 times to work the air out of the system while making adjustments to the cables to make sure the arms are raising together with the safety locks engaging at the same time.

Ok, put a car on the lift and set the arms to the desired location. Raise the car about a foot off the ground and rock it to make sure it is properly loaded and not off balance. Raise the car to the desired height and set it back down on the safety locks to release the pressure off of the hydraulics. Congratulations, you are now ready to get to work on the car!

Redline Engineering LLC
1849 Yellow Dog Rd
Senatobia, MS 38668
901-351-4764
www.redlinestands.com
[email protected]